Zaitzeff

Hungry as can be, I took stock of the dreary dining options along Nassau Street. To my right, there was a Blimpie's, and further down, a Wendy's. Sighing, I turned to my left and saw… a small miracle: Zaitzeff.

Zaitzeff is a burger place that cares! It does the Burger Joint in Le Parker Meridien one better, and serves up patties of organic meatloaf, Kobe beef, and even tuna steak in addition to the regular sirloin. Each burger is lovingly set upon a Portuguese muffin and topped with ripe red tomatoes, horseradish cream, and (if you wish) hefty slices of avocado, grilled onions and cheese.

The sandwiches are quite substantial, but if you must eat further (as I do), there are mixed green salads and heaps of sweet potato and russet French fries. And, when by the cash register, don't overlook the plates piled high with housemade cookies, muffins and brownies. (Some of the brownies are cut larger than others; I left you the biggest one.)

One final tip: try to get to Zaitzeff before the lunch crush; as word spreads around the area, large companies are increasingly ordering 40 burgers at a time!

Zaitzeff: 72 Nassau St., (212) 571-7272.